Back in 1977, Robert and Rosie Campbell-Preston (like a lot of people at the time) decided to experiment with smoking. Fish, that is. And (unlike a lot of people at the time) they chose a method that’s so traditional, it’s thousands of years old. “The system we use was developed by the Romans for smoking salami. I’d say there’s only half a dozen of us in the country using this method,” says Robert.

To this day they’re still slowly smoking their fish the traditional way for 48 hours in old brick kilns over oak log fires. It gives the fish its delicate texture and full-bodied flavour. As well as being the only way to create an utterly wonderful, nuanced smokiness, Robert has another reason for doing it the long way round: “It’s more fun.”